Out of Africa (with my family)

Twenty years after my first visit, I am returning to Cape Town, one of Africa’s most fascinating cities and a heady mix of culture, design, fabulous food and wine and beautiful landscapes. This time I’m travelling  with my family and we book into the Belmond Mount Nelson. Dating from the mid-1700s, it’s one of the oldest hotels in the country and an oasis of peace and tranquility in the centre of the bustling city. While the interiors still retain an air of colonial grandeur, today it is steeped in the elegance and refinement of contemporary hospitality. Within minutes of arriving, the staff are greeting us by name as if we were old friends and we soon feel totally at home, relishing the legendary South African hospitality. Although it’s tempting to stay put and enjoy the magical atmosphere of the Mount Nelson, we take full advantage of its strategic location and set off to explore the city and beyond: Cape Peninsula, set among breathtaking cliffs and Boulders Beach, a stretch of sand sheltered by granite where you can get right up close to the endangered African penguins.

From Cape Town, our journey continues along the scenic Garden Route which runs parallel to the Atlantic Coast for some 700 kilometres, passing Cape Agulhas (the southernmost point in Africa, where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet) and onwards to the colonial village of Port Elizabeth.

After visiting Hermanus, one of the best places for spotting passing whales, we arrived at Grootbos, an immense private reserve acquired piece by piece to protect the fynbos, the spontaneous vegetation of this latitude, and to allow it to flourish. There is little here to break the fynbos apart from a few minimalist rooms where you  can relax in a magical symbiosis of beauty and nature which stretches all the way to Walker Bay, a small inlet where whales come to train their newborn calves to swim. Grootbos may be a luxury retreat, but it also supports the local community with practical projects such as computer lessons, sports camps for young people and experimental micro-farming. It is a pioneering eco-resort that is at the forefront of combining environmental protection with high-end hospitality; gourmet food and the finest South African wines, spacious suites-with-views and a plethora of daily activities. With our guide Tiaan, we venture on marine safaris that bring us to seal colonies and up close to giant humpback whales. We set off on botanical hikes, visits to prehistoric caves, horseback rides and a thrilling trip through the dunes on special mountain bikes with wheels modified for the sand.

The route continues to Plettenberg Bay and Knysna, the two coastal jewels overlooking the Indian Ocean. Here the landscape changes, becoming almost tropical as the warm, northern currents coax the chill out of the winter air. We suddenly remember that we are in the opposite hemisphere to our own!

As a base for exploring, we have chosen the Tsala Treetop Lodge, a charming lodge with rooms among the trees set in a wide valley. We feel totally enveloped by the wilderness: from our perch among the foliage, the view of the valley offers sunsets of rare beauty, presenting a different spectacle at the end of each day. The lodge is part of a large country estate that includes two other colonial-style hotels and several restaurants, each different from the next but all with excellent food. The location is perfect for exploring the area which offers a plethora of activities, from zip-lines to rafting and thrilling encounters with reptiles and primates.

Our South African adventure could not end without a photo safari. So after a short flight we arrive in Johannesburg where we book into the Saxon Hotel & Villas in the quiet residential district of Sandhurst, home to ambassadors, politicians and celebrities. Protected by mighty walls, it is set in four hectares of lush gardens and has a unique atmosphere blending classic luxury and modern comforts with hints of South African tradition and history.

The following day we leave for the Madikwe Game Reserve, 75,000 hectares of pristine savannah on the border with Botswana and South Africa’s fifth largest private reserve. There are few lodges, so it is rare to come across other jeeps on safari, and while we are not alone, we feel like true explorers in search of the Big Five, those elusive five mammals that everyone longs to see up close. We stay at the elegant Impodimo Game Lodge, an estate set on a rocky ridge near a natural spring with unforgettable views. Our two-room villa, perfect for the four of us, overlooks the spring where many animals come to drink in dry season: there, nature’s spectacle unfolds before our eyes, keeping us mesmerized for hours on end. But outside, our private off-road vehicle is waiting with ranger Ruben and tracker Sam ready to guide us on the adrenaline-provoking search for animals.

Following footprints and other clues, we come within a few steps of a lion, which we are able to admire without disturbing his lazy nap. The excitement continues when we come across a lion hunting his  prey and a mother lion nestling her months-old cubs.

The whole stay was memorable, not least for the attention to detail, the exquisite food and the welcoming smiles of the staff.